The burning question is seed vs seedling which one do you have to have to grow a successful garden?
What if I didn't start enough seedlings or what if my seedlings died, do I have to buy all my plants at the nursery? The short answer is no! You are able to start most of your plants from seed if you are able to get into your garden soon enough. Depending on your growing area. Each growing zone is broken down to give you an idea of the average climate in your area. This will tell you if you are able to grow certain things. But the real key is to see the number of frost free days in your area. Follow these steps to see what you can grow in your area by seed this season.
How to determine which to grow: seed vs seedlings
Growing zone
A growing zone is a geographical area that is defined by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) based on the region's climate, temperature, and other environmental factors. It is used to determine which plants are most likely to thrive in a particular area. The USDA has divided the United States into 13 different growing zones, each with its own unique characteristics. Click here to find your zone.
Determine first and last frost date
There are many websites that you can enter in you location and find you first and last frost date. I have been using Almanac website for years with some great results. However I have recently been double checking my local extension office and the results of the last frost date has been very close as well. You have to understand that this is just an estimation and that no one can 100% determine just what Mother Nature will do.
Write you first and last frost date on your calendar and then another thing that I will do is check my 10 day forecast, again this is just a prediction. Get outside and observe what is happening, you can even take a soil thermometer to check the temperature of the soil. These are all ideas that will determine a date to start planting.
Determine the number of day in your growing season
There are calculators to determine the number of day in you growing season, you can even ask google how many days are there between this date and that date.
You can even do it the old fashioned way and count the days between the last spring frost date and the first fall frost date. This gives you an estimation of how many day you have to grow. This is very important because some crops take a long time to produce. While others take much less and you can have sever successions planning in one season. You can find the number of days the plant takes from germination to harvest on the back of most seed packets. I wrote a post earlier breaking down the information on most seed packets and the seed packets that I mostly recomend.
Understanding plant hardiness classification
There are different plant classifications that determine when you can plant certain seeds in the ground. Hardy, Half hardy and Tender
Hardy:
Hardy plants are plants that are able to withstand harsh weather conditions, such as extreme temperatures, drought, or excessive rainfall. These plants are typically able to survive and thrive in a variety of environmental conditions, making them a popular choice for gardeners.
Here are some examples of cold-tolerant vegetables you can direct sow before you last frost date. I also explain the ins and out of winter sown gardens {here}
Kale
Spinach
Arugula
Bok choy
Broccoli
Carrots
Celery
Radishes
Beets
Cauliflower
Cabbage
Swiss chard
Lettuce
Peas
Onions
Garlic
Onions
Spinach
Sugar snap peas
Winter peas
Half hardy:
Half hardy plants are plants that can tolerate some frost but are not completely hardy. They are typically planted in the late spring or early summer. The list above could be in this category also
Brussels sprouts
Radicchio
Endive
Turnips
Radishes
Tender:
Tender plants are plants that are sensitive to cold temperatures and cannot tolerate frost. They are typically grown in warm or tropical climates and may require extra care and protection during colder seasons.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplant
Cucumbers.
Melons
Getting you hands in the soil
In my gardening routine, I go for the no/low till method, usually using container or raised beds. This lets me dive into the garden a lot earlier, getting those plants in the ground sooner. Unlike the traditional way of waiting for the spring till – which, let's be real, can drag on, especially with unpredictable rainfall – my preferred approach lets me seed before the last frost date, giving my garden a jumpstart. For those looking for more in-depth insights, consider joining my members page for and get a percentage off my no/low till growing online training.
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